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Exploring caves

 

 

By Stephanos Nikolaidis, speleologist, cave-diver

As you will certainly know from mythology, one of the most wonderful structures in Minoan Crete was the famous Labyrinth under the Palace of Knossos, an underground complex of passages in a chaotic architectural pattern where no-one who entered could find the way out. The person would wonder around hopelessly in the dark confusing passages and in the end would be eaten by the Minotaur, a monster with the body of a man and the head and strength of a bull.

Well, if you think that all this is just fantasy, you’d be wrong! Evans may not have found a Labyrinth at Knossos, but Greek and foreign speleologists have found hundreds of Labyrinths in the Cretan mountains. They are almost completely in proportion to the mythical Labyrinth at Knossos, if we discount the fact that most of the caves and sinkholes of Crete have an impressive arrangement of stalactites and stalagmites. But before you abandon the sunlight and enter the narrow mouth of a dark, cold cave, you should fix well in your mind the basic rules of safety (or rather, more correctly, of survival), the legal limitations and the basic principles of caving savoir-vivre. Otherwise you will be in danger of seeing the Minotaur himself or (in other words) death with your own eyes.

Safety Rules

* It is completely dark inside caves - you can’t even see you nose in front of your face. If something happens to your torch and it goes out, you will be in a very unpleasant position. So you must have with you a spare torch with new batteries that will get you to the exit. It is also a good idea to have a candle and a cigarette - lighter with you, just in case. The only suitable torch is the one you fix onto your forehead, because this leaves both hands free. As for gas lamps, they are entirely unsuitable and dangerous.

* We are talking to you in the plural, because one person never goes alone into a cave. It is a good idea for someone outside the cave to know where you are, again just in case (but not your mum!)
* A piece of safety rope (5-6 metres) is useful for help on slippery descents and short climbs.
* Wear clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty or torn, and shoes with lugged soles.
* Only at the cave entrance or under stones is there sometimes a likelihood of finding scorpions or snakes which my be poisonous, so be careful where you put your hands.
* It is absolutely necessary to wear a protective helmet, because caves are full of hard, sharp stalactites. Your motorcycle helmet is absolutely unsuitable. If you haven’t got a mountaineering or bicycling helmet, you can make a rough helmet with a tight-fitting knitted cap or hat, inside which you stuff thick socks or your leather gloves.

Legal Limitations

* Under Greek Law, caves are considered protected natural and cultural monuments.
* Officially, you need a permit to enter every cave (apart from commercially developed ones); this you get from the Ministry of Culture, Department of Speleology and Paleoanthropology, in Athens.
* Naturally, removal of anything whatever from the cave (whether stalactites or archaeological objects) can get you into big trouble with the police, and not even Theseus will save you.
Savoir - Vivre
* When we enter someone’s house, we wipe our feet or take off our shoes. This is an act of respect to the place. Most caves existed thousands of millions of years before man appeared on earth, and they have managed to bring into our modern times the secrets of their creation and remains of the creatures which lived and died inside them. It is not necessary to remove our shoes inside a cave, but we should be very careful indeed to leave nothing behind us apart from our shoe-prints, and to take photographs and nothing else.
* There may be no wild animals or dragons inside caves but we will certainly run into bats that we try not to wake up or to frighten, and blind harmless insects that have adapted to the environment of the cave and they do not at all like to be stepped on or to go for a walk in the light.

Source of the information on this page : “Unexplored Crete”, Road Editions. For more guidebooks and maps of Greece, click here.

 


Tip of the day

Granvoussa & Balos, Crete
Some of the most beautiful places of Crete can be reached neither by bike nor on foot. One such place is the desert island of Imeri Gramvoussa, which can only be reached by boat from Kasteli.
Imeri Gramvoussa (Tame Gramvoussa) is anything but what its name implies. In reality, it was a site of hard battles and a pirate nest. The story starts in 1579, when the Venetians, rulers of Crete, decided to build a fort to protect their ships which sailed these waters on their way to and from Venice. Three years later, on the top of the steep rock stood a well-built fort that was unassailable indeed. Its water supply came from two wells and five large cisterns and it was soon filled with weapons and ammunition; in 1630 the list included 24 cannons of different bore, 4000 cannon-balls and 40,000 pounds of gunpowder.
When Crete was conquered by the Turks, the Morozini Treaty provided that this fort, together with the forts of Souda and Spinaloga, would remain under
Venetian control. But the Turks had other designs, and they used the only effective means they had to conquer it. They bribed the officer in charge, who opened the door for them, turned over the keys, said “Welcome to Gramvoussa,” and then boarded a Turkish vessel for Constantinople where he lived to be a very old man, dishonest but rich!
The Turks stayed in the fort for 130 years during which there was no need to fire a single cannon shot! They simply sat in this desolate place and watched the seagulls flying by...
Then one day, in 1821, the Greek Revolution broke out and the Cretans decided that they needed a safe base of operations. They chose the fort in Gramvoussa because it was exceptionally strong, there was a harbour for their ships, and it was close to the Peloponnese where the people had also rebelled against the Turks. In December of 1823 the Turkish garrison numbered only fifty soldiers. One night a body of five hundred men came quietly ashore. Their leader, Bouzomarkos, climbed up the wall, jumped in, went straight to the gate guard post, and stabbed the guard who was innocently sleeping in the arms of his sweetheart.

 

 

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